Mezcal Steps Up: Meet Tequilas Crazy Agave Kin

Posted on | September 28, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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Sombra Smoky Margarita

Of all the effects wrought on the spirit world by the 21st century cocktail revolution, none was as unpredictable and as fascinating as the emergence of mezcal as a  quality ingredient.

Even when tequila shed its rambunctious reputation, its crazy uncle (see sidebar on mezcal facts) could unnerve even the most seasoned drinker with its rustic tang and smoky assault. If tequila was Robert Downey Jr., a bad boy gone good, then mezcal was Charlie Sheen—unrepentant, unregenerate and bad down to the bone.

That was the image, anyway, and it was hard to erase, though a few voices continued to cry out in the wilderness. One man in particular, Ron Cooper of Del Maguey, persisted, developing great respect for the varieties of single-village mezcals he’s brought here since 1995.

Bars and restaurants featuring Mexican spirits have done their part, and cocktail bars as well, notably led by NYC’s Mayhuel, where barman Phil Ward’s Oaxacan Old-Fashioned caught attention and has been frequently copied. Restaurateur José Andrés celebrated the spirit at his annual Mexican festival in March at Las Vegas’s China Poblano; the celebration included the Oaxacan Swizzle (Del Maguey Vida, ruby port, fresh pressed apples, lime, ginger and housemade orange bitters). And at Andrés’s Oyamel in Washington, DC, his mezcal drinks include the High Tea (Los Nahuales Reposado Mezcal, chamomile tea, honey and tobacco bitters). Clearly, mezcal has proven to be well adapted to contemporary drinking.

Meanwhile, with renewed interest in Oaxaca, a dozen or more new brands with devoted advocates now make the rounds. And the thirst for education among fans spurred Doug French, maker of Scorpion Mezcal since 1996, to tour the U.S. leading a four-step master mezcalier certification program (www.mastermezcalier.com) in cooperation with the Mexican government.

“The long road has just begun with education and awareness of this world-class, ancient spirit,” says Barbara Sweetman, VP and sales manager at Scorpion and Mezcals de Oaxaca. “We’re taking the time to promote this program in order to give the real movers and shakers in the industry the tools and information they need to recommend, sell, taste and educate in turn.”

Carving a Niche On-Premise

Bars and restaurants showcasing mezcal are blooming in many cities—New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, San Diego, and Austin, among others. Take the back room bar of popular Austin spot Takoba, where Cantina El Milamores now offers more mezcals than tequilas, plus a flight menu that features and contrasts various agave varieties and villages. Following Ward’s lead, mezcal, tequila and sotol (another legally defined Mexican agave spirit) get the Old-Fashioned treatment there.

Meanwhile, San Diego’s El Take It Easy features as many cocktails based on mezcal as tequila. In Los Angeles, an extensive array of about 50 mezcals are the attraction at the bar Mezcaleria, representing the category in a new light. New York City’s Viktor & Spoils, like the Mezcaleria, helped pioneer menuing mezcals by agave species (espadin, tobala, madrecuixe, dobadaan, others).

The changes have been dramatic, and in general, Ron Cooper is pretty pleased. “I got so used to owning the category, I was almost insulted,” he says. “But I’ve been convinced that all the new energy going into mezcal actually helps us all.” In addition, since joining up with supplier Gemini Wine and Spirits (a division of Sazerac), Del Maguey has been getting national promotional support.

Lately, the mezcaleros received a little help from some deep-pocketed friends. William Grant has just introduced Montelobos. Zignum entered the U.S. market last year with financial backing of Mexican Coca-Cola bottlers; as did Wild Shot, a brand owned by country star Toby Keith, whose three units of I Love This Bar & Grill are serving plenty of the brand, according to his spokesperson.

Richard Betts, head of Sombra, thinks the entry of Toby Keith and William Grant will only benefit the smaller guys. “Keith will bring in a whole group of people who wouldn’t otherwise be in the category, who might trade up to us or other brands,” he says.

The range of other mezcal brands—Sombra, Ilegal, Wahaka, Danzantes, among others—now provide retailers and bar owners a broader choice. And the increasing availability of quality mezcals at a price point lower than Del Maguey’s single-village iterations has been crucial. (Cooper designed Del Maguey Vida to be priced in the mid-thirties and mixable in cocktails, in response to demand from the trade.)

Also important has been the introduction of attractive packaging, different varietals and a range of styles. A version of Fidencio, for instance, is made “sin humo,” without smoke. Scorpion now supplies estate-grown tobala silver and añejo mezcals. Numerous brands are targeting the mid-thirties price point, aiming to be the entry mezcal.

Sombra now has a moderated smoke quality, says Betts: “There should be some smoke but the spirit with too much smoke doesn’t taste like the place as much as tasting like the process.”

Spirits impresario John Henry, who has launched his own brand, El Buho, in three markets including New York, says that the expanding market definitely includes women who are taking to it in cocktails and even as a culinary ingredient—part of the smoke ingredient trend. One woman at a tasting recently told him, “This is my white Lagavulin,” referring to the smoky Islay single malt Scotch.

With on-premise growth still slowed by the recession, Henry sees the off-premise environment as more promising. Specifically, the logical market is the expanding pool of tequila drinkers, says Gino Luci, brand manager for Montelobos. “In most basic terms, we are targeting premium tequila drinkers who are looking for something new and different. One of the biggest challenges with mezcal is that it’s a relatively misunderstood category. It has a rich history and legacy. In response, we are working to educate not only about Montelobos, but also the complexity and unique offerings of the category overall.”

Mezcal Basics

Just as all Cognacs are brandies but not all brandies are Cognacs, all tequilas are mezcals but not the other way around. Mezcal can be made from a variety of about 30 agave species (including the Blue Weber from which tequila is made by law) and is distilled in one of seven Mexican states, though more than 90% of mezcal comes from Oaxaca.

  •  Most mezcal (around 85%) is made from the espadin agave variety. Mezcals made from other agave varieties are now emerging. 
  • As for its long-time reputation as firewater infused with the aroma of burning rubber, there’s still a little something to the idea that these are powerful and pungent spirits, with even the better-made variations coming to the U.S. retaining a punchy and smoky essence. Mezcals are an acquired taste, like Islay single malt Scotches or grappa.
  • Mezcal comes by its smoke from its ancient production method: agaves are slowly roasted in an underground pit, sometimes for days, usually with mesquite or oak. Then the agaves are crushed under a large stone wheel called a tahona, the juice often fermented in wooden tanks before being distilled twice in alembic stills.
  • As with tequila, mezcals can carry age designations: joven (or blanco, silver or abacado) is aged less than two months; reposado has “rested” in oak for two to 12 months; añejo has been aged between one and three years; and extra añejo is more than 3 years old.

Chile: Momentum Through Innovation

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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Diversity, quality and novelty keep the Chilean wine industry moving forward.

Los Vacos in Colchagua Valley

Call it the “I” word: Innovation. Granted, the term is easy to fling around—not unlike politicians use the word change. But in the case of Chilean wine, so much is happening in so many areas that it is reasonable to say that innovation is the new normal.

 Vineyards have been planted—or, in many cases, replanted—to position the right grapes in the right places. As for the grapes themselves, the Cab/Chard comfort zone is being stretched by Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, even Rhône varieties and Malbec! Creative blending is taking place at every price level, while signature wines are angling to grab the attention of sommeliers and connoisseurs. And complementing experimentation in the vineyards and labs, marketers are crafting new projects that appeal to the modern American consumer.

 Moreover, the Chilean wine industry has fostered a culture of cross-pollination that promises to place this long, narrow country firmly in the mainstream of the U.S. wine market. And on the retail and restaurant frontlines, the best news of all is that this wave of innovation can translate directly into selling points for the wines.

 Leaving the Past

 To put modern Chile in perspective, it is instructive to take a quick look back. Perhaps no U.S. importer is more mindful of how far Chile has come than Alex Guarachi, who founded TGIC in 1985 and helped write a new chapter for Chilean wines by introducing Montes to the U.S. Back in the 1980s, he recalls, the nation’s reputation was based almost entirely on low-priced wines that were “just drinkable, simple, overcropped.” Quickly, however, Chile saw an influx of investment (Lafite, Mouton, Robert Mondavi, Antinori, Torres), widespread implementation of new technology and, most importantly, a fresh commitment to “learning about appellations and clones.” He asserts, “Chile is like California in the Southern Hemisphere,” and capable of making wine that can compare favorably with the best of the world. 

 It took time—and a lot of education, Guarachi notes. Gradually the wine media and the trade took notice. He points to a blind tasting of the 2004 vintage, in which Montes showed well against higher-priced Bordeaux and California wines as a key moment. Casa Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta being selected as Wine Spectator’s “#1 Wine of 2008” was another. While Chile did not experience anything quite as dramatic as California did with the 1976 Paris tasting, in two decades’ time, Chile achieved a fundamental shift in perception—from price orientation to quality. As Guarachi puts it, Americans began to “equate Chilean appellations and producers with
great wine.”

 Going Vertical: Chilean Terroir

Great wine begins in the vineyard, goes the saying, and talk of vineyards inevitably turns to the concept of terroir. Fortunately, Chilean terroir is every bit as valid as European terroir, but for two basic reasons it’s a whole lot easier to grasp: 1) European wine zones are complex patchworks, featuring hundreds of subdivisions and qualitative designations; Chile has just over a dozen wine regions, all valleys, and thanks to the country being long and narrow, they are basically stacked north to south, framed by desert to the north, ocean to the west, mountains to the east. 2) While European terroir quickly tilts toward minutiae, Chile keys more on simple climatic and positional factors, namely latitude (warmer toward the equator); proximity to the coast (with beneficial cooling breezes); and elevation (think: hillside or valley floor).

 Whereas many 20th-century Chilean wines emerged generically from the “Central Valley,” today’s wines proudly declare a sense of place. The delicious irony at work is that it was Old World savoir-faire that has empowered Chilean growers to match grapes to microclimates in their wine regions. Certainly the learning is still ongoing, but the patterns that have emerged are being shared—accelerating the process. Sauvignon Blanc is thriving in cool pockets of Casablanca, coastal Colchagua and San Antonio valleys, for example. Further inland, Maipo is king for Cabernet Sauvignon and Colchagua and Cahchapoal do well for Carmenere. (One revelation about Carmenere: it fares better on valley floors than hillsides.) Syrah shows promise in both warmer and cooler areas (as it does in other parts of the New World). Way south in Bío Bío, Pinot Noir is proving to be a great match.

 As fruitful as the past decade or so has been in terms of terroir-targeted plantings, the best may still be yet to come. Case in point: Concha y Toro’s brand new Gran Reserva Serie Ribeiras, or “Riverbank Series”—six varietal wines, each grown on terraces and hillsides along Chile’s four major rivers. These vineyards benefit not only from the mineral-rich and free-draining soil, but also from the river corridors that bring cool breezes to complement the naturally sunny landscape—ideal for slow maturation of the fruit.

 Diversity, with Quality

 Planting the right grapes in the right places is neither magic nor guesswork; it’s agriculture and science, and the system is working in Chile. This is very important in the big picture: Moving forward, Chile is well positioned to avoid the potential pitfall of becoming a one-trick pony, à la Shiraz in Australia or Malbec in Argentina.

 On one level, Chilean wine diversity is subtle, evident in how many wineries produce multiple varietals. But on closer inspection, producers are exploring variations within this theme, via single-vineyard, reserve and proprietary bottlings. Los Vascos, Santa Rita and Concha y Toro are established wineries which, for many years, have done a nice job of producing varietal wines on distinct tiers, where intensity and complexity ascend with price. Today it’s hard to find a winery that doesn’t produce and market in levels. The net effect is that Chile has more than avoided a sense of sameness; the modern Chilean portfolio—whether at the importer, distributor or retail/restaurant level—rivals the selection you could assemble from any wine country on earth.

 Even within the palette of well-known grapes, there is both breadth and depth. Listening to Brand Manager Javier Guinazo talk about the Chilean brands at Winebow, for example, is like listening to a proud father introducing four children. The eldest, Cousiño-Macul, specializes in high-elevation Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo Alto as well as solid Chardonnay. Leyda (in the San Antonio Valley just eight miles from the coast) is the young whiz kid, proving Chile’s promise in cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. TerraNoble is like the child who’s good at everything, with vineyards in the Maule, Colchagua and Casablanca valleys yielding six different varietals bottled in distinct Classic, Reserva and Gran Reserva levels. (TerraNoble is also deeply involved in trials with Carmenere.) Root:1, the simple child, is a throwback to Chile’s bang-for-buck era, but in a self-aware way as the brand name ties in to Chile’s heritage of phylloxera-free vines planted on ungrafted rootstock. Root:1 has become an emblem of modern Chilean value—the success of their $10 Cabernet has enabled the brand to extend into Carmenere, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

 Chile’s diversity is also happening in a more overtly innovative sense via surprising grapes. At the Wines of Chile “Tapestry of Terroir” walkaround in New York City in June, there was excellent Syrah (De Martino “Legado” is a stand-out). There was Malbec (Calcu) and Riesling (Meli) and Gewürztraminer (Cartegena). I sampled commendable Pinot Noirs under $20 (Llai Llai, Cono Sur). There was a late-harvest wine and rosé wine and wild-yeast Chardonnay…even a single-vineyard País. Biggest eye-opener of all? Carignan. There were a handful at the trade tasting. I was later able to try several Old Vine Carignans in a separate tasting; these are serious wines with tremendous aromatics, structure and spicy intensity.

 New Toys: Carmenere & Blends

While typical and atypical varietal wines capture some of Chile’s evolving innovation, what is happening with Carmenere and blends is even more exciting.  Carmenere, of course, is the “forgotten” grape which disappeared from France in the 19th century but grew in Chile, mistaken for Merlot until genetically identified in 1994. It is a challenging red grape, late to ripen and prone to a green character. But that’s a challenge the Chileans are embracing, with results that improve each vintage. Personal favorites include Casa Silva, Emiliana and Santa Carolina in the $12 range; Viu Manent “Secreto,” Montes Alpha and Santa Rita “Medalla Real” in the $20 range. Few expect Carmenere to become a star in its own right, à la Malbec, but it has filled an important role as a point of distinction in the market. It’s a bit like a new toy—a tasty one at that—and as Chile’s third most-planted red grape, we can expect plenty more new twists in Carmenere vintages to come.

 Who knows—ten years from now, we may find out that Carmenere may become more successful in blends than flying solo. This much is certain: blending is rampant in Chile already. At the Tapestry of Terroir tasting, the 36 producers were pouring 30 Carmeneres (not a surprise)—and 44 wines with Carmenere in the blend (hello!). Just as Chilean wine regions have no rule for what can be planted where, the country enjoys no constraints on blending—leading to an almost dizzying array of combinations, many of which follow neither Bordeaux nor Rhône models.

 While many of Chile’s “icon” wines are blends, many are very reasonably priced. MontGras’s Quatro, for instance, is a mid-teens combo of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Syrah and Malbec; lovely ripe fruit, balancing tang and just a touch of grip. On the white side, Anakena’s “Ona” is a lush, tropical mix of Viognier, Chardonnay and Riesling.

 Of course, given that Chile produces mostly red wines (75%), it’s no surprise that most of the blends are red. While Cabernet Sauvignon still represents the #1 bottled import from Chile, innovative blends—particularly ones that break tradition with standard European recipes are on the rise, at all price points.

 Statement Wines

 A quick scan of the Chilean section at a good retailer reveals that many of the ultrapremium wines reaching us today are proprietary blends—Almaviva, Montes “M,” Clos Apalta, Seña, Santa Rita “Pehuen,” Los Vascos “Le Dix,” Domus Aurea and Altair, to name a few. These wines are crafted (and priced) to make a statement. Perhaps even more interesting, however, is the growth of “statement” wines at lower price points—ones designed to stand out in other ways. Take Casa Silva’s “Cool Coast” Sauvignon Blanc, or Undurraga’s “Terroir Hunter.” Terra Andina was redesigned with vivid labels that present “fresh” Sauvignon Blanc, “bold” Cabernet Sauvignon and “scandalous” Carmenere. And the Friday Monkey Group is importing two literally fun-themed wines: Lucky 7 (with labels based on dice) and The Deck (based on poker).

 Meanwhile, Montes’s latest red blend adds a solid dash of cute to their $14 offbeat blend of 50%-50% Malbec and Cabernet. It’s called “Twins,” and features artwork by Ralph Steadman, just like its sibling rosé, “Cherub.” Montes made the wine, but the name was Alex Guarachi’s idea. He says, “Consumers want something new, exciting and different.”

 Fortunately Chile is proving that there are a lot of ways to be innovative, while still staying grounded in the wine culture that brought the country this far already.

Appleton Estate Picks Winner in Bartender Challenge 2012

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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On September 10th, Appleton Estate Rum held its 2012 Remixology Bartender Challenge at The Liberty. Actress Jamie Chung and her pal Diem Brown guest judged the competition alongside cocktail experts Dale DeGroff, Collin Appiah and Natalie Jacobs. Finalists from San Francisco, New York, Boston and Miami integrated performance into their cocktail preparations. Boston’s Ted Kilpatrick won a trip to Jamaica with his “Red But Not Quite Cocktail” crafted to Aerosmith’s “Pink.”

yellow tail & NBC Universal Partner to Promote DVD Release of Snow White & The Huntsman

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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On September 10th, NBC Universal and [yellowtail] wines kicked off year two in their promotional partnership, to celebrate the Movies On Demand, Blu-Ray, DVD and digital download release of summer hit Snow White and The Huntsman. Guests enjoyed Good and Evil wine cocktails made with [yellow tail] wines in a setting filled with details from the film including costumes.

Bärenjäger Mixes It Up With 3rd Annual Bartender Competition

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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On September 10th, Bärenjäger, the original honey liqueur, anointed Katie Loeb of Philadelphia as Queen Bee and first-ever winner of the brand’s third annual national Bärenjäger Bartender Competition. Loeb won an all-expense paid trip for two to Oktoberfest 2012 in Munich and $1,000 with the “Bärenberry Mule”. The judges included Iron Chef Geoffrey Zakarian; Dushan Zaric of Employees Only and Macao Trading Co.; Tad Carducci of The Tippling Brothers, Bridget Albert of Southern Wine & Spirits and Jeffrey Morgenthaler, Clyde Common.

Lauber Imports Partners with Silverado Vineyards

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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On September 7th, Lauber Selections held an event to celebrate the addition of Silverado Vineyards into the Lauber Imports portfolio.

Palm Bay Celebrates Relaunch of Terra Andina

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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On September 7th, Palm Bay International celebrated the relaunch of the South American Terra Andina line of wines, which Palm Bay is now importing and marketing for the U.S. Attendees were treated to a show with South American music and dance performances. The wines are from Chile, Argentina and Brazil and will be handled in New York by Lauber Imports.

Moët & Chandon Fêtes U.S. Open Tennis in Style

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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On August 28th, Moët & Chandon held a Tiny Tennis Invitational at Le Bain + Rooftop at The Standard as part of its U.S. Open celebrations. Jim Courier coached social notables in mini-court matches. On September 10th, celebs watched from the Moët & Chandon Suite as Serena Williams won in ladies singles. After her win, Ludovic du Plessis presented her with a personalized Jeroboam of Moët Imperial.

Oak Beverages and Warsteiner Celebrate Bierfest

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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Oak Beverages, part of Boening Bros., was on hand to welcome Bierfest, a new German-Austrian restaurant, to the Middletown restaurant scene, and support its beer and wine lines during the grand opening. The beverage portfolio includes beers like Warsteiner Pilsner, and wines like Konig Johann Amarus Riesling.

PGA’s Jim Furyk Golfs With Johnnie Walker

Posted on | September 27, 2012   Bookmark and Share
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On August 27th, Diageo and professional golfer Jim Furyk participated in a Johnnie Walker event held at the Winged Foot Club in Westchester. Diageo and Atlantic Wine & Spirits management spent the day with Furyk, who is a Johnnie Walker spokesperson. He spoke about being named 2010 PGA Tour Player of the Year and winning the 2003 U.S. Open.

 
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