June 2013
velop and expand the wine list last year.
“I’ve been in the industry many years, and
vegan food has evolved so much—I love
the challenge of pairing the wines and
flavors.” And more people are discovering
the fresh, uncomplicated tastes of organic
wines. “My wine sales have increased al-
most every month, and guests love that
they are drinking healthier wine with
their organic food,” she says.
Goddeau is expanding the list, which
currently shows 17 whites and rosés, in-
cluding sparkling, and 12 reds. Among
the organic (or Biodynamic) selections
on the CCW list are Raventos I Blanc
Sparkling Rosé Cava (Spain-Bio), Gira-
sole Pinot Blanc (Mendocino), Fumberg
Wimmer-Czerny Grüner Veltliner (Aus-
tria-Bio), Benziger Pinot Noir (Carneros),
COS Nero d’Avola (Sicily) and Coates
Syrah (Humboldt, CA).
At Lincoln
Making the
Wine List Work Harder
incoln Ristorante, the sleek Italian
restaurant at Lincoln Center, has one
of the most interesting Italian wine
lists in the city. There are wines from ev-
ery Italian region (even Molise, Liguria and
Lazio). But Wine Director Aaron von Rock
also has created a way to focus attention on
specific areas, grapes, wine types, vintages,
producers and even cocktails.
For example, von Rock has curated
one page dedicated to the Nerello Mas-
calese grape and Etna Rosso wines of
Sicily. Six selections include Faro Palari
2007 ($165), Etna Rosso Terre Nere “Pre-
philloxera” 2010 ($170), and even
a sparkling Rosé, Murgo Brut Rosé
Nerello Mascalese 2009 ($85). “The
feature pages have been a great way
to lead guests onto the cutting edge of
the wine scene and sell some esoterica as
well,” he says.
Then there is a special section featur-
ing three wines in multiple vintages from
Piedmont producer Roagna, including
Barbaresco “Asili” 2006 and 2004 ($190,
$195) and Barbaresco “Crichet-Paje”
from 1999 through 2002 ($375 to $505).
“Roagna’s byline through five generations
of winemaking has been: ‘Roagna never
changes.’ The reality is that young Luca
Roagna’s talent for Nebbiolo is remark-
able. He has added complexity while re-
taining the traditional house style,” von
Rock remarks.
Another special section features seven
wines from the outstanding 1990 vintage
in Piedmont, and the section on Barolo’s
Cru Brunate—a vineyard shared by the
communes of La Morra and Barolo—of-
fers the single-vineyard Brunate bottlings
of five producers, some in multiple vin-
tages. Says von Rock, “The combination
of terroir and producer style rarely gives
you this broad a range of opportunity to
taste horizontally.”
In addition, there are two “Bars” of-
fered in the list: a Prosecco Bar and a
Negroni Bar. The Prosecco Bar gives the
customer a choice of three Proseccos, to
which s/he can add a fruit puree (peach,
cassis, green apple), then add a shot of
a liqueur (elderflower, amaretto, gin-
ger, etc.). The Negroni Bar starts with a
choice of straight-up, rocks or sparkling
(with Prosecco) and then offers a choice
of five gins or one vodka (Charbay Blood
Orange), then a choice of six bitters,
then six vermouths.
Von Rock notes,
“The Negroni is back with a vengeance,
encouraging new exciting ingredients to
crop up. Some of the items in the Negro-
ni Bar are brand new to the marketplace,
such as the [vermouths] Cocchi Rosa
from Brachetto grapes and the Massican
from California.”
Rosé by Another Name: Sangria
ew Yorkers are having a fling with
rosé wines. At Landmarc and
Ditch Plains restaurants (both part
of Marc Murphy’s Benchmarc Group),
Wine & Beverage Director David Lom-
bardo says, “People are asking for it. We
have been creative in transforming it into
such things as granitas, but most popular
is our special Rosé Citrus Sangria.” They
serve it by the glass for $9.
Have any tips on NYC wine lists and programs?
Please email us at
Sommelier at West, Cynthia Goddeau
The Negroni
bar at Lincoln
1 bottle of Rosé (they
use a Rosé of
Half lemon and half
lime, sliced
36 oz. of your favorite
citrus juice (or even
add some peach or pear nectar)
8 oz. purée of your favorite berry (strawberry
is in the original)
Half bottle of rum
Combine ingredients and let sit overnight.
Serve over ice with a lime garnish.
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