August 2013
Beverage Media
57
Burgenland, Austria is made of 100%
Grüner Veltliner. Grüner from Austria is
not unusual, but as a sparkler it is quite
rare ($13/$52). Chardonnay is always
popular, and several from Burgundy and
California are on the list. But the “Were
Dreams” 2007 Chardonnay from Jer-
mann in Friuli ($135/bottle) or Michel
Gahier’s 2007 Chardonnay hailing from
Arbois in the Jura, France ($65/bottle)
are unexpected and tasty alternatives.
In reds, an organic 2007 Nebbiolo from
Bianchi from the less-known Gattinara
commune in northern Piedmont is more
approachable in its youth than many
Barolos—and more affordable at $78/
bottle.
aligning the List & the Food
at Michael’s
S
peaking of big wine lists, Michael’s—
Michael McCarty’s enduring celeb-
rity hot spot in Manhattan’s West
50s—now has over 800 bottles stretching
to 56 pages, with 26 wines by the glass of-
fered in 3-ounce or 6-ounce pours. Bever-
age Director Kasi Shelton has been shak-
ing up the list these past months to bring
it more in line with Chef Kyung Up-Lim’s
small-plate offerings (Korean steak tacos,
fried chicken wings, duck-confit sliders).
In many cases, that meant moving
away from the dominance of California
wines—though there are still plenty—to
more global selections. Several new Por-
tuguese labels have appeared—an Esporão
Trincadeira/Cab blend from Alentejo ($9
& $17/glass, $68/bottle) and a Quinta
dos Murcas 2009 Touriga Nacional blend
from the Douro ($8 & $16/glass, $60/
bottle). The list has a “Sixty and Under”
section where over 60 wines priced under
$60 a bottle wait to be discovered.
Shelton also opens a bottle of an
older wine each evening; a Corison
1997 Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa
was the star one night. And in a hat-
tilt to younger patrons and technology,
the entire list is presented on tablets.
Says Shelton, “The list is now more
approachable, and we lowered most
prices by 30%.”
My Big Fat Greek Wine List
A
t Molyvos restaurant in the
Manhattan’s West 50s, you will
find more Greek wines on the
list than at any other restaurant in the
U.S.—an amazing 520 labels. General
Manager/Wine Director Kamal Kouiri
has been building the list for years, tak-
ing it all Greek five years ago. He also
has about 50 wines by the glass, spe-
cifically so that diners, many of whom
have no exposure to Greek wines, can
try them.
“The value and quality of most Greek
wine is now phenomenal,” says Kouiri.
He makes it a policy to offer samples
of wines to guests so they can deter-
mine what they like. “People are really
responding to Greek indigenous grape
varieties,” he adds. Very popular now is
a single vineyard Moschofilero Domaine
Spiropoulos from the Astala vineyard in
the Mantinia region made from certified
organic grapes ($72/bottle).
The interest in Greek food and wine
is increasing as more people travel to
Greece or plan travels there. Kouiri
visits Greece at least once a year and
always comes back with new, exclusive
wines for the list.
NOTe:
Have any tips on NYC wine lists and programs?
Please email us at
.
At Michael’s the new
emphasis on small
plates led Beverage
Director Kasi Shelton to
revamp the list; 26 wines
are offered, in both 3-oz.
and 6 oz. pours.
greek Wine
offerings
aT Molyvos
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