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BEVERAGE MEDIA
September 2013
An Ounce of Cure...
Leveraging Older Wines
W
ith cooler weather, Morrell
Wine Bar in Rockefeller Center
has restarted its Wines By The
Ounce program, in which an older bottle
is opened every Thursday. “Our wines by
the ounce program is rather unique: we
pour wines that have 10-15 years of age
and at prices which are quite approach-
able,” says Sommelier Anna-Christina
Cabrales. Ounce pours range from $11 to
$15; half-glass pours (2.5 oz) $22 to $25
and full 5-ounce pours $40 to $50.
“It’s an opportunity to try something
that they may not necessarily select at
a wine store,” says Cabrales. “Several
guests have remarked that they would
like to start drinking more ‘serious’ wines,
and this opportunity is a great way to
introduce them into the world of fine
wine,” says Cabrales.
Just one bottle is opened sometime af-
ter 4:00pm, with timing depending on the
age of the bottle, presence of sediment,
how much air—or time after decanting—
they think it needs to open up. It usually
is sold out by mid-dinner service.
For September the wines are:
9/5 - Dalla Valle Vineyards, Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
9/12 - Poderi Luigi Einaudi, “Costa Grimaldi”
Barolo 1998
9/19 - M. Chapoutier, “L’Ermité”
Ermitage 1997
9/26 - Château Grand Puy Lacoste,
Pauillac 1995
Busting open cellar dwellers for in-
dividual pours may well develop into
a full-blown trend around town, with
different restaurants adding a signature
twist. At Morrell, it’s offering three sizes
of pours. At Bar Boulud, Michael Mad-
rigale has nurtured a following by open-
ing oversize bottles.
The practice has also jumped the Hud-
son: If you happen to be anywhere near
Hamburg, NJ, Restaurant Latour is pouring
older wines by the glass once a week from
a 135,000-bottle cellar. They have already
poured a 1961 Borgogno Barolo Riserva
($55), 1977 Château Mouton Rothschild
($50) and a 1999 Drouhin Le Montrachet
Marquis de Laguiche from magnum ($55),
among many others. On the schedule for
September are: 1981 López de Heredia
Viña Bosconia Rioja Gran Reserva ($35)
and 1966 Graham’s Vintage Port ($35.
9/13). Their twist: pours can be reserved
in advance.
Pushing the Envelope
By the Glass
Plus the Best in Plastic, Single Malts
& Purple Prose
BY PATRICIA SAVOIE
NYC
WINE
LIST
SLEEK
& STEMLESS
“GLASSES”
FROM
GOVINO
Sommelier
Anna-Christina
Cabrales,
Morrell Wine
Bar in Rock
Center
1...,68,69,70,71,72,73,74,75,76,77 79,80,81,82,83,84,85,86,87,88,...120