September 2013
BEVERAGE MEDIA
79
Serving Wine Al Fresco
W
e became intrigued with plein-air
plasticware after experiencing the
Govino glasses at Terroir at the
Porch back in August. Govino glasses are
the Waterford of shatterproof stemware—
a real boon in the city, where glass is not
allowed for garden- and roof-deck dining.
These stemless vessels are crystal clear, and
their thumb notches and slight flexibility
make them comfortable to hold. There are
12- and 16-ounce glasses, 8-ounce flutes
and even a decanter, all made from high-
grade, BPA-free plastic. They are reusable,
shatterproof and recyclable, but washing
by hand is recommended.
Govino is the creation of Joseph Per-
rulli, a Napa resident, with financial back-
ing from Boyd Willat, a Los Angeles entre-
preneur. The two spent nine years studying
the many shortcomings of existing plastic
vessels and interviewing manufacturers to
find one who could make Govino glasses
from PETG material. While the glasses are
still more a West Coast phenomenon, a
few NYC spots are using them.
They are not cheap; one place said
they cost over $1.00 per glass. Interesting-
ly, they have as much appeal off-premise
as on. Keith Beavers, owner of both the
East Village res-
taurant In Vino
and the retail
store
Alpha-
bet City Wine
Company, says
they are “the
perfect in-store
vessel—easy to clean, durable, and they
don’t break.” He also sells them (in at-
tractive four-packs) at Alphabet City,
where they are extremely popular.
Govino glasses are sold by Martin
Scott in the NY metro area. Attesting
to their high-design quality, they also are
sold at the Museum of Modern Art store.
Singl Does Single (Malts)
S
ingl, in the recently opened Union
Square Hyatt Hotel, is run by the
One Five Hospitality group (Toc-
queville, 15 East), which also manages
the other two restaurants in the hotel.
Wine, spirit and beer selections are under
the direction of the One Five Beverage
Director
Roger
Dagorn, MS. Sin-
gl is named for its
extensive single
malt Scotch and
single vineyard
wine selections.
And Dagorn
ha s a dd e d an
interesting and
educational twist.
Singl is offering a series of single malt
Scotch tastings on Tuesday evenings. At
each two-hour session one brand of Scotch
is tasted in three different finishes and pre-
sented by the ditillery’s brand manager or
another Scotch expert.
At one recent tasting, Highland Park
was presented by Nicola Riske, Edring-
ton brand manager; the three finishes
were 12 year old, 15 year old and 18
year old. At another, David Blackmore,
master brand ambassador for both Ard-
beg and Glenmorangie, even suggested a
new cocktail, the Ardbeg Bloody Mary
with a base of Ardbeg 10 year old instead
of vodka. Dagorn says it adds an element
of smoky bacon to the drink.
Coming in September:
9/10 - Oban, presented by Spike McClure,
Diageo Senior Master of Whiskey (14 year old,
18 year old and Distillers Edition)
9/17 - Lagavulin, presented by Spike McClure
(12 year old, 16 year old and Distillers Edition)
9/25 (final tasting) - The Balvenie, presenter
TBD (12 year old DoubleWood, 14 year old
Carribean Cask and 21 year old PortWood)
Purple Prose Evokes
S
ome wine lists go overboard with
descriptors, making it close to im-
possible to figure out what the wine
is actually like. Others have no descrip-
tion at all, leaving diners to tap their
own knowledge. And some lists evoke
the wine or beverage. Put Sel de Mer, a
small seafood mecca in East Williamsburg
Brooklyn, in the evocative camp. Show-
ing a streak of Brooklyn moxie—the res-
taurant has no website and no answering
machine—the wine list carries no brand
or label names. But the descriptions com-
municate salient points.
For example, a 2010 white Bordeaux
is “cold and steely like Ryan Gosling in
Drive.” A 2011 Grenache Rosé becomes
“carpe rosé! a classic, dry Provence rosé...
nectarine, peach blush....yeah girl.” And
if you didn’t feel like having a white wine
spritzer when you walked in, perhaps you’ll
feel differently after reading “you say lame,
I say lamé. f%@# the grandma stigma...it’s
sparkling and fabulous. get over it.”
NOTE:
Have any tips on NYC wine lists and programs?
Please email us at
Singl, in the
recently opened
Hyatt Hotel in
Union Square
NYC
WINE
LIST
1...,69,70,71,72,73,74,75,76,77,78 80,81,82,83,84,85,86,87,88,89,...120