Even when tequila shed its rambunc-
tious reputation, its crazy uncle (see
sidebar on mezcal facts) could unnerve
even the most seasoned drinker with its
rustic tang and smoky assault. If tequila
was Robert Downey Jr., a bad boy gone
good, then mezcal was Charlie Sheen—
unrepentant, unregenerate and bad down
to the bone.
That was the image, anyway, and it
was hard to erase, though a few voices
continued to cry out in the wilderness.
One man in particular, Ron Cooper of
Del Maguey, persisted, developing great
respect for the varieties of single-village
mezcals he’s brought here since 1995.
Bars and restaurants featuring Mexi-
can spirits have done their part, and
cocktail bars as well, notably led by
NYC’s Mayhuel, where barman Phil
Ward’s Oaxacan Old-Fashioned caught
attention and has been frequently cop-
ied. Restaurateur José Andrés celebrated
the spirit at his annual Mexican festival
in March at Las Vegas’s China Poblano;
the celebration included the Oaxacan
Swizzle (Del Maguey Vida, ruby port,
fresh pressed apples, lime, ginger and
housemade orange bitters). And at An-
drés’s Oyamel in Washington, DC, his
mezcal drinks include the High Tea (Los
Nahuales Reposado Mezcal, chamomile
tea, honey and tobacco bitters). Clearly,
mezcal has proven to be well adapted to
contemporary drinking.
Meanwhile, with renewed interest
in Oaxaca, a dozen or more new brands
with devoted advocates now make the
rounds. And the thirst for education
Steps
Up
Meet Tequi la’ s Crazy Agave Kin
By jack robertiello
O
f all the effects wrought on the spirit world by the
21
st
century cocktail revolution, none was as unpredictable
and as fascinating as the emergence of mezcal as a
quality ingredient.
Agave piñas at Montelobos distillery in Oaxaca,
the Mexican state where 90% if mezcal is made.
Sombra Smoky Margarita
