and Ole Smoky use mason-jar-shaped
packaging to showcase assorted fruits.
Philadelphia Distilling’s XXX SHINE has
added a salted caramel flavor to its original
88.8
proof blend of hand-selected Ameri-
can corn distilled three (XXX) times in a
copper pot still.
Even established brands have be-
gun to introduce white whiskies, mainly
as a way to showcase the aged versions
in their infancy. Buffalo Trace makes
a 125 proof corn, rye and barley White
Dog Mash #1. In addition to their val-
ue-priced 80 proof Georgia Moon Corn
Whiskey, Heaven Hill introduced a new
series called Trybox. These New Make
white whiskies are taken straight off the
still and bottled at 125 proof—a chance
for consumers to try known aged whis-
kies in their pre-barrel raw stage. For ex-
ample, Trybox original New Make would
become Evan Williams Straight Bourbon;
and the Rye New Make would become
Rittenhouse Rye.
Marketing
Moonshine
When it comes to telling moonshine’s sto-
ry to prospective consumers, the spirit’s
hard-edged reputation seems to have real
staying power. Marvin “Popcorn” Sutton,
who died in 2009 by his own hand rather
than spend 18 months in prison for sell-
ing untaxed whiskey, was known as the
most famous moonshiner in the moon-
shining capital of Cocke County, TN. He
epitomized everything people loved—and
hated—about illegal distilling. A natural
born marketer, he published a book,
Me
and My Likker
,
and was featured in the
cult hit documentary
This is the Last Dam
Run of Likker I’ll Ever Make
.
Right before
his death, he met Jamey Grosser, a for-
mer motorcross racer, and sold his moon-
shine recipe. Hank Williams Jr. joined as
a partner and they set up a distillery in
Nashville, recreating the famous Popcorn
Sutton moonshine as a legal Tennessee
White Whiskey.
Piedmont Distillers out of North
Carolina (makers of Catdaddy Spiced
Moonshine and Midnight Moon) had
a 200% increase in sales in the first half
of 2012 to 50,000 9L cases. Founder
Joe Mihalek—the first craft distiller to
introduce a legal moonshine, Catdaddy,
in 2005—admits people were skeptical
in the beginning. But a partnership with
legendary moonshiner and professional
driver Junior Johnson in 2007 not only
securedhisfamilyrecipe,butthemarketing
muscle of NASCAR fans. As legend goes,
the sport came about in the 1930s, when
moonshiners began engineering their cars
to go faster and outrun the police. Junior
Johnson was one of the early adopters
of NASCAR, and the first track was
built in his hometown of Wilkesboro,
North Carolina.
The line of Junior Johnson’s all-
natural Midnight Moon Fruit Inclusions
was introduced in 2010. Made from
original 100-proof Midnight Moon, real
pieces of fruit are infused in traditional
moonshine jars, adding to the home-
grown appeal. Flavors include Apple Pie,
Cherry, Strawberry, Blueberry, Cranberry
and Blackberry.
When Tennessee began allowing
spirits production across new counties in
2009,
a group of local families joined to-
gether to create Ole Smoky Moonshine.
With recipes passed down for generations,
the 100-proof line includes a traditional
corn whiskey for sipping (made from
80%
corn and the rest secret); White
Lightnin’, a smoother version made for
cocktails; and fruit infusions Apple Pie
and Cherry, as well as seasonal flavors
available only at the distillery (Blueberry,
Grape Hunch Punch, Lemon Drop, Pink
Lemonade, Strawberry).
Despite the popularity of vodka, it’s a
difficult leap of faith for many consumers
to try white whiskey. With stronger flavors
and often higher proofs, it’s also hard pi-
geonhole white whiskey and moonshine
into a one-taste-fits-all category. Like
aged whiskies, there are many aspects of
ingredients, origin and technique that go
in to the final product.
As we progress in the golden age
of American whiskey, education and
exploration are on the rise, which should
help buoy the already rising tide of
white whiskey.
n
By any name,
modern
moonshine
qualifies as a
craft spirit,
made attentively,
often in small
batches.
moonshine
Marvin “Popcorn” Sutton died by his own
hand in 2009 rather than go to prison for
selling untaxed liquor. Right before his death,
he sold his recipe to former motocross racer
Jamey Grosser, who in 2010 partnered with
Hank Williams Jr. to legally produce
Popcorn Sutton Tennessee White Whiskey.
